Cultural Appropriation in Fashion: The Fine Line Between Inspiration and Exploitation
Fashion often mirrors society, reflecting its history, values, and identities. It’s a space where creativity thrives and global influences frequently come together strikingly and beautifully. But when borrowing from cultures crosses the line into theft, misrepresentation, or exploitation, it’s no longer inspiration—it’s cultural appropriation. The fashion industry, in particular, has a long and ongoing history of crossing this line, often at the expense of the communities it draws from.
What Is Cultural Appropriation?
Cultural appropriation occurs when individuals or institutions adopt elements of a culture that is not their own, typically marginalized or colonized, without permission, understanding, or respect for its original context. In fashion, this can range from using sacred garments or symbols as trend pieces to profiting off traditional designs while excluding the people who created them.
The problem isn’t cultural exchange—it’s power dynamics. When designers from dominant cultures profit from the aesthetics of historically oppressed groups without acknowledgment, collaboration, or compensation, the act becomes exploitative.
Case Studies: Fashion’s Troubling History of Appropriation
Indigenous Headdresses
At multiple music festivals and fashion runways, Indigenous feathered war bonnets—items of deep spiritual significance—have been reduced to costume accessories. In 2015, retailer Victoria’s Secret was widely criticized for featuring a model in a feathered headdress, leopard print lingerie, and turquoise jewelry—none of which was contextually accurate or respectful of Native American traditions.
Maasai Beadwork
High-end brands like Louis Vuitton and Valentino have drawn inspiration from the colorful beadwork of the Maasai people of East Africa. Yet, many of these brands never engaged with Maasai communities or provided them with credit or financial compensation. This is particularly troubling considering the Maasai have attempted to trademark their cultural symbols in response to repeated exploitation.
Bindi and South Asian Accessories
Pop stars like Selena Gomez and fashion lines during Coachella have adopted bindis and other Hindu symbols as aesthetic add-ons. These are not merely decorative elements—they hold religious and spiritual meaning within South Asian cultures. Reducing them to trends strips them of significance and contributes to cultural flattening.
Chinese and Japanese Traditional Dress
Kimono-inspired looks have been used repeatedly in Western runway shows without any consultation with or benefit to the cultures from which they originate. In 2015, an exhibition at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts featuring a “Kimono Wednesdays” dress-up event led to protests by Asian American activists who viewed the event as trivialization and exoticism.
Why It’s Harmful
Cultural appropriation in fashion often leads to:
Erasure of Origin: When traditional garments or motifs are rebranded by Western designers, the original culture is often left unnamed or stereotyped.
Economic Exploitation: While luxury brands profit off conventional designs, the communities who created them are often economically marginalized and excluded from these profits.
Stereotyping and Exoticism: Appropriative fashion tends to reduce entire cultures to clichés, treating them as monolithic and static rather than diverse and evolving.
Cultural Trauma: Many fashion pieces appropriated today—like cornrows, dreadlocks, or saris—have been historically stigmatized when worn by people from those cultures. When dominant groups suddenly make these styles fashionable, it exposes deep-rooted inequalities.
What’s the Difference Between Appropriation and Appreciation?
The latter is a beautiful celebration of diversity and creativity. It involves: Cultural appreciation involves:
Learning the history behind a cultural item or tradition.
Engaging with the culture respectfully, including involving artisans, designers, or historians from the originating community.
Collaborating or compensating fairly: Appreciation often includes economic or creative partnerships that uplift and credit those communities.
An example of appreciation done well is Stella Jean, a Haitian-Italian designer who collaborates directly with artisans from marginalized communities. Her collections feature authentic craftsmanship, and profits are shared with those involved. Similarly, some Indigenous fashion designers like Bethany Yellowtail use their platforms to reclaim cultural design from within, ensuring that the narrative and benefits stay within the community.
What Can Brands and Consumers Do?
Support Indigenous and Local Designers
Buy from creators who represent their culture and use fashion to preserve heritage rather than exploit it.
Do the Research
Before purchasing or promoting culturally significant clothing, understand its meaning and origin.
Avoid “Ethnic” as a Trend Label
Terms like “ethnic prints” erase the referenced cultures’ diversity and specificity. Be specific and accurate.
Demand Accountability from Brands
When fashion houses appropriate cultural elements, speak up and encourage them to take corrective action, including crediting and compensating source communities.
Engage in Cultural Exchange, Not Extraction
Cultural exchange requires mutual respect, consent, and benefit. Brands must walk this line to truly celebrate global fashion.
The equalshuman Approach
At equalshuman, we are committed to mindful collaboration and cultural respect. We do not lift designs from cultures we aren’t part of—we work with artists and communities who represent those traditions firsthand. Our pieces are rooted in authenticity and storytelling, not trend cycles or shallow aesthetics.
We believe that fashion should connect people—not flatten or exploit them. That means giving credit, paying fairly, and always remembering that behind every pattern, motif, and textile is a culture, a story, and a human being.
